I purchased a pair of the "RE-ISSUE" carbs for my '67 (#2914) about a year ago and was under the impression that these were identical to the originals. The first thing I found is that they had incorrect screws. Since my car was missing the original carb's when I bought it back in '76, I didn't really know what to look for. I've now noticed that these carb's are "boiling" and making the engine hard to start when it's hot. I've now seen pictures of original carbs that have vents. I've tried to find some bowls with the correct vents with no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to deal with this?
Its pretty common knowledge the reissues are different. There have been dozens of posts on that subject. The carb is not causing your fuel to boil, its the cheap, crappy ethanol based fuel you are trying to run through it. Chaulk another one up to an overactive, oppresive national government
The fact that the fuel log is bolted to the intake ,and effectively pre heats the fuel to engine temperature doesn't help. Your cooling system is pressurized so the water doesn't boil. Unfortunately your fuel system isn't and the ethanol only makes the situation that much worse. Bob
Yes, I've heard about the ethanol before. I had this same problem 30 years ago when I put a couple of Holley 1850 carb's on the car. I managed to find some bowls back then that had the anti percolation valves and it did help. I can actually hear the fuel dripping and sizzling into the intake about 10 minutes after I shut the engine off. I've got a pair of original carb's (with the wrong date code) buried in the garage. I'll guess try to find them.
I had the same problem on a 410 HP 427 Fairlane. The carb was a 3255 and had LeMans bowls. In the summer it was a beast to start as the heat would boil the gas right out of the bowls. I tried: A thicker composition gasket under the carb. I wraped tin foil around the fuel log and even tried eliminating the fuel log and using a T fitting with hoses. These things helped but didn't cure the problem. (The cure was replacing the Lemans bowls with current design center pivot bowls, but that won't work in your case.) I don't think adding bowls with vents will help but it's worth a try. One of the last sources of decent gas is Union 76 as they don't put ethanol in their gas, at least around here. Good Luck
I use nothing but 76 gas in all my cars. I did have a gasket that was about a quarter inch thick on my old set up. I'm going to add that and the vents asap. That's about all I can do. I just drove the car to my shop. It's only about 3 miles, but what a blast. I found the original set of BJ / BK carbs last night. They're dated 6O3. If anybody has a set for March to May of '67 and wants to trade, let me know!! I also have a rear carb for a '63 with a Ford tag. I'll put these in the classified asap.
First off the carbs were built in batches during the course of the year. With that said when was the car built at Ford and not Shelby? A May date seems awfully late. As much as a three month carb date prior to build at Ford is not uncommon IMHO. Bob
may not cure your issue, but would deffinately help, If you have room to raise the carbs up 1/2" and dont care about being correct, you can always run 1/2" carb spacer that doesnt tansfer heat; wood, parabolic, poly ?
I thought I would clarify that quick turnarounds on carbs wasn't always the case. I was trying to point out that there is a wide range of dates and that if the car was May or June built at Ford , limiting yourself to that date month range is not necessarily the only answer. I don't remember seeing a May 67 date code on a BJ BK carb. Bob